After visiting the Valentino exhibition I decided that I wanted to include some of the Couture techniques within my garment but at a more high street level. The one outfit I liked the most was a chiffon dress that used a technique known as Budellini
'Budellini (a couture technique specific to Valentino), where you start with a flat fabric, you roll sheep's wool into tubes, and then cover them with satin'
Valentino: Master of Couture' exhibition at Somerset House, London
By Apphia Michael
http://www.wallpaper.com/fashion/valentino-master-of-couture-exhibition-at-somerset-house-london/6215
I have looked into making these with something that has body like plastic tubing and although it looks nice its quite heavy, so I came across somee piping cord that shoild be used for piping around cushions when I was rooting around a haberdashers that was only 23p per meter and I used this with jersey overlocked to make a long narrow sock type cover and I fed it through. I like this and will use it within the short dress at the front and the jersey top, like caging or scaffolding and the waistcoat maybe.
Wednesday, 13 March 2013
Final Major - Budellini technique
Final Major - Outfit 1 short dress
Started the toile for my short dress and I am not happy with it at all, its shapeless and very unattractive looking, not the look I was after. I have tried to pin it to give it more shape but there is still something wrong, I think I will move onto another outfit and come back to this one when I've thought about it some more.
Final Major - Draft Outfit 2 Top
The design i am working to is as attached
After making my first toile for the top I have decided that it is too shapeless and I want a little more structure.
I decided to change the neck line so that it was without polo styling and amend my long dress so that it was polo necked. Also improve the armhole as it seems to pull. Finally I will change the fabric at the front so that its 100% cotton, I will have to see how it looks if I self line the front but I will also have to look into having a seam across the front so that the shoulder weaving is still in the jersey one the front and back and remove the shoulder seam as I dont want a join in the middle of my weaving.
To do: amend pattern and re-toile
Monday, 25 February 2013
Final Major - Print

Final major - fabric


I visited a fabric shop on line that supplied cheap muslin. So I purchase some for sampling. Once it arrive I tested starch on it to see how it would work on the muslin. The results were pretty good and I though excellent, I have my fabric however after watching the the first episode of Signe Lagerfeld and learning that couture toiles are made of muslin tbe put my off using a toiling fabric for my collection. I want budget fabrics wih coutue designs made in a way that could be mass produced. Street Couture.
I liked the idea of using jersey/t-shirt fabric, a fabric that is more than often used by high street and perhaps tbought of as cheap. If I used fabric often used by high street and gave it a coutue makeover then I could get the look I am after. So I bought some £1.80 per metre white jersey.
Looking back through my sketchbook I liked tbe look of the scaffolding and weaving styles. I have played around with an old tshirt and I think my results could work within my design development.
Tuesday, 12 February 2013
Starching Muslin - How far can you go????
Firstly, the un-stiffened muslin:

It was floppy and lifeless, it didn't hold itself well even after ironing and when stitched to hold its shape it just lacked confidence.
The lines looked untidy at the centre and where all lines met it was uneven and lacked a professional look
Secondly, the stiffened muslin:


If was clean and sharp, it held together well after ironing. It was easier to mould so that the lines met cleanly at the centre and it gave the piece more volume and life.
It would need to be tested on dyed muslin also as there was a slight colour change when starch was added. I would also need to assess how much it would effect the dye and whether it would add to the dye running once I'd gained the pattern desired. I also want to see just how stiff I can achieve and how much starch that would require.
Valentino Exhibition
The exhibition showed a total of 130 outfits, and although they each held a beauty that is un-levelled, my eye was drawn to a collection of outfits that displayed some interesting techniques that I would like to experiment with and see if they could be reproduced at high street level. Techniques that can be affordable for the everyday fashion fan.

Valentino's Haute Couture SS08 pale tulle evening suit with small appliquéd origami shapes, embroidered with tiny pink glass beads.
This idea could be assimilated into my designs, look into making muslin origami shapes that could be appliquéd onto outfit.
Look into playing with size and stiffness.

This Valentino dress, from the Haute Couture SS03 collection, has inserted transparent godets and is finished with beading around the arms.
Its an interesting idea to add a little transparency within the dress, this looks very revealing without allowing the wearer to feel naked. I also like the added beads around the arms, it gives a feeling of delicacy and softness, a little detail in a very otherwise simple yet glamorous design
I could use the idea of having a simple design with splashes of detail, this would enable the design to be beautiful and couture inspired yet keeps the cost down and so allows a high street price tag.
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www.instyle.com |

The detail on the reverse of the dress is incredible, the idea of the ribbons the cascade down into a fan of material.
This idea could draw in the concept of structure within building scaffolding, it highlights the lines and brings an additional level to the shaping.
I would also like to look into the lines and how this could be used as it sits well with my theme of caging and scaffolding and structure.
This could also be seen in Valentino's Haute Couture SS1993 dress that uses a technique called budellini, which involves coating wool in a skin of chiffon, like long worms or sausages.
This is something I would like to look into using, but with something that has more body than wool. I have had a conversation with my husband and he suggested using windscreen washer tubing, so he has ordered me 3 metres and I will experiment with it, coating it in muslin.
I also like the idea of creating a collection that looks tactile, that has volume and makes you want to feel it.
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Fall/Winter 2007/08 |
Fall/Winter 2007/08 had a technique called Paigine, which is hundreds of disks made of organza piled to create a pages of a book effect. This is interesting and could work with the edges of the origami squares that I can create.
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Fall/Winter 1986/87 |
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Spring/Summer 1992 |
All of these techniques called be experimented with to find a more high street technique, something more affordable.
From this exhibition, I will need to do quite a bit of experimenting and research into fabric properties and how colour will work with different processes
Sunday, 10 February 2013
Major project update
My sampling fabric has arrived, four metres of white muslin, so I went out and bought a can of starch. I am going to research the fabrics properties and what shapes can be acheived. I can see what happens to its structure when a stiffening agent is added. I will also dye some too, this will help me understand how intense a colour change would be and it will give me an idea of shrinkage, as making the fabric wet may lead to the width or length shrinking.
I will start tomorrow, and I am looking forward to it!!!
Wednesday, 6 February 2013
Major Project
The themes of my major project are structure, such as in buildings and scaffolding and caging, but also Origami within fabric manipulation. My concern is that this is quite a predictable theme, Origami has been done by fashion students and over done. I want my final outcome to be as far away from the usual Origami outcome as it can be, strive for something new and buck trend.
For these reasons I have been initially looking at satins and taffetas this is a very obvious choice though and one that would be very predictable. I have therefore been looking into changing a fabrics properties by adding chemicals such as starch or even interfacing, and it has become very apparent that muslin can be manipulated quite easily. Muslin is 100% cotton and therefore also holds the potential to dye well. This could add another dimension to my design process, print. I like the idea of adding print and would love to work within print design in the future, so would be very beneficial to go through the process of print design for my major project.
I have ordered 4m of muslin in white to research what can be produced with this fabric, how it hems, how it can be folded and draped and how it can be dyed and starched.
If i do end up using this fabric I believe i will need an additional fabric that will work with the muslin but help provide another dimension to my work and also help provide additional structure where needed, ordering the 4m sampling fabric will provide me with a sample to shop with, helping make additional selection easier.
To Do:
Shop for additional fabric
Await delivery and then, dye it, hem it, starch it and drape it. Photos, photos, photos!!!! Samples, samples, samples!!!
Monday, 4 February 2013
Professional Practice - the outcome
A Critical Analysis of the Professional Practice Process
In reflection I believe I completed the exercise in the best way possible for me. Firstly I prepared my CV and portfolio so that I was sure they represent me in the best possible way, one is no good without the other when applying for a creative role. It is my belief that when you make your first contact with a potential employer, you need to bare in mind that it may only be the first contact of many before they actual pay attention and consider your requests seriously, it is therefore important to make sure that the impact you leave is a positive one. Maybe I will not hear back from any of the brands that I have contacted, but if I choose to apply for a position with the brand or the individuals that have viewed my submission again, in the future I may be remembered from my previous contacts, and if so, I want to ensure that the memory is positive one. This would require ensuring that the presentation of my efforts reflect me well and that all correspondences are consistent and of a professional standard, including being well thought-out and not look as if I have rushed the work. It is important that my CV and cover letter are creative, honest and well researched, which includes without error. That any work they may see is of the highest quality and reflects my abilities, whilst also showing my potential.
I learned a lot about researching from this process also, about researching a brand before writing the covering letter. This is something I didn’t understand until I followed the instructions and only then as I wrote my first covering letter did I see the importance and the power it can provide you with.
I now understand more about the companies I have researched, companies that I had assumed there was little left that I could learn about them, knowledge that will place me in good stead should I acquire an interview.
When it came to the format that I ended up sending the CV and portfolio in, I spent a long time deliberating over whether it should be sent be email or by post, if I were to send it digitally, it would turn up immediately, without delay, it is a process that requires no finance to carry out and I can send almost all of my portfolio, however I would be unsure that the email was read or just discarded without any viewing, which is common with unsolicited emails within business. If I were to send it by post I can tailor make the entire package, my CV, covering letter and work can all reflect my creative flare. I can ensure that it stands out by using special paper, or writing style. I also think this process is harder to ignore, however it does have its drawbacks, It require a lot more work and it is very costly for printing.
I decided that a compromise was to send hard copies via the post but to send only a handful of images to each, making sure the ones I selected represent me accurately and that they were best suited to the brand I was writing to, a tailor made package, whilst ensuring the cover letter and CV highlight how my entire digital portfolio could be viewed. Although it is not the way I would wish to send them, it is still, in my opinion, better than emailing; it is more personal, more thought-out and shows an eye for detail and presentation. I think it represents me in a more positive manner. I am happy with the way in which I have carried out the process and look forward to the process when I have completed my studies and am ready to take on the working world again, at the end of April.
Not long now and hopefully this exercise will help as the companies I have contacted are all ones I would be very excited to work for.
Tuesday, 29 January 2013
Professional Practice - Getting a Job!!!
I have now amended all my work so that it is Landscape and I am really happy with it.
I have set up my Linkedin page, which includes my CV and a link to this blog. All of these things were quite time consuming but let me tell you, worth it. Although I have had little activity for either pages, I am proud of my work and I am happy for the world to see it, hopefully all the hard work will pay off and I will get my first design job soon!
I have still to send off my CV and I have decided that initially I am going to send it off to:
Tesco
ASOS
Debenhams
George
The Arcadia Group
I have also decided that based on the fact that I have person needs for a fully paid job and that I have quite an extensive employment history within the fashion industry, I am going to send the work, CV and covering letter off in the hope that I get some interest for a fully paid position, whether that be full or part-time. It will if nothing else prepare me for my job seeking once my degree is completed, and hopefully my work will be remembered at that time and a job will be available for me to interview for.
I am quite optimistic that my previous employment history will definitely be a useful tool when scouting for a job, my understanding of a products life-cycle can only be an advantage, but in addition, my experience working to deadlines and preparing creative presentations for clients can only place me in good stead for my future.
Monday, 21 January 2013
All Saints - Trend Analysis cont...
I have taken a look at, Diesel, Topshop Unique, Vivienne Westwood and Phillip Lim, to name but a few.
I looked at Skirts, Jackets (leather and cotton mix), dresses and tops.
Dresses:


There was a lot of draping on the catwalk, from Westwood and Topshop. This seems a strong look and should be included within the design process.
The fabrics seem either soft cottons or fine jerseys.
I think I will use jersey, as this hugs the from with ease and comfort. All Saints are more about comfort than structure.
Jackets:


With Leather jackets, the fabrics look thinner and the styles look either nipped in at the waist or boyfriends jacket styling.
Whilst Helmut Lang showed a mix of colour and fabrics. Using panels to exaggerate colour.
But we also had a lot of asymmetric styles, including Salvatore Ferragamo with muted tones in lux leather.


We also had Vivienne Westwood show jackets with volume and folds, draping and layering, with nipped in waists and uneven hemlines.
She also had wide shoulders, with a soft structured look.
Colours were muted, earthy tones, with a worn-in look to leathers
Skirts:
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Yamamoto |
Tops:
Long shirt like tops, with pockets and panels, and an ease and non-restrictive look. Soft silks and natural linens and soft cottons.
All Pictures are from www.stylesite.com
All Saints - Trend analysis
Colour:
Colour is muted tones, with a few pieces in light greys and off whites. A few colours are used to lift the muted tones with a little teal and silver, aqua and dirty pinks being used within prints and embellishments.
Silhouettes:
Whilst most garments are sympathetic to the female form, there is always a simplicity and an androgynous feel to the items, which reflects my interview findings, that items that do well will often be subject to minor alterations in order to be able to sell within the alternative section, men's wear of women's wear.
Asymmetric lines and draping is also apparent, with boxy lines used for jackets and outerwear.
Lines:
Tops: nothing too fancy, very casual looking items that could be dressed up with some styling knowledge, or confidence. Graphic prints seem very important to the All Saints signature and it would be silly if this was over looked within my collection.
Dresses: jersey, draping and print. The draping is kept to a minimum and the fabrics seem rich and soft.
Skirts: Leather seems to be the fabric of the moment, however I believe that as summer creeps in this will change. Mini skirts and pencil skirt, but this reflects the autumn winter trends.
Leather: Jackets are made with men and women in mind with a few pieces that are more feminine or masculine. Leather tops, and trouser as well as skirts with very expensive looking and feeling leather.
Jackets: Boxy, classic and simple styles. Some draping and clean lines.
With the interview and the store visit, along with the research online at their All Sites site, I have managed to put together a Customer Profile.
I then looked online for SS13 trends.
Stylesite is an amazing tool to look into future trends and I started with colour trends for SS13.

After continued research, I think that FAUX BLACKS would be an accent colour that would be included within the brand for SS13


To Do:
1. Create a print for designs
1. Start design development
Monday, 7 January 2013
All Saints Interview
All Saints - Visit




The clothes inside the store range from evening wear, through office wear and include everyday wear and casual. You could essentially buy your entire wardrobe from All Saint, if you could afford to.
All Saints - Brief received
I have started by looking at All Saints online profile, they have a website that is focused on their Spitalfields branch, they have what appears to be very fashion and design focused items but they lack colour and maintain a very black, brown and muted tones palette.
I need to try and speak to someone that works for All Saints, maybe get myself and interview with someone and I need to visit a few branches of the store.
To Do:
- Visit Brent Cross and Lakeside All Saints Stores
- Try and acquire an interview with an employee
- Research All Saints history and ethos
- Research All Saints profile and image
- Research All Saints online store for design and collection and fabric compositions
CV and Linkedin
I have set up my Linkedin page and have completed it in full. This now included all my skills and all my work experience and education. It also have links to projects that I have completed and am proud of, which show the skills I believe are important to the type of work I wish to gain and the level of the market I wish to join.
Now I need to improve my connections, which is proving difficult as all the contacts I have made within my time working in the fashion industry do not appear to have Linkedin status, sadly, but I will try and gain connections regardless, positive mental attitude and all.
Blog - Updated
CV - Updated
Linkedin - Achieved and complete
Updating Blogger
I am a lot happier with the outcome and although I still need to add a link to my linkedin page, once its set up, I feel it is now somehting I am happy showing others.
Things to do: Up date my CV and set up my Linkedin account
Linkedin/CV Seminar
I became aware of the importance of making sure that you maintain a professional online appearance through all social and professional networks and that you need to be aware of how your image is being presented online.
As I have no online CV I thought it would be a priority to get Linkedin, in order to do this I will need to update my CV and then use that as a tool to get my Linkedin account up and running.
Online Profile Seminar
I found it all very interesting and very motivating. I enjoyed learning about how to create your own www. address and the benefits of this and how to use the blogger page as a website. I also learnt the importance of using the blog as a way of introducing viewers to you as a Designer. How to layout the page and tips on how people navigate around websites.
Although I already have a Blog, I decided it would be necessary for me to revisit the themes of my page, the layout and the navigation.
To do: redesign my blogger pages so that a possible viewer would spend more time on the site and would be able to find what they were looking for with ease