Induction Brief - update

Taking a look at my previous blog, looking into eveningwear trends and Douglas Hannant 2013, one of his designs reminded me of the fortune telling origami game I played whilst at school
http://douglashannant.com/spring-2013-bridal-collection

this has made me think of japanese origami, and japanese design and pattern cutting such as Issey Miyake or Yohji Yamamoto. The structure also reminds me of the futuristic buildings in our major cities, the way the frames and angles look

These are areas for research:
Japanese pattern manipulation
Origami
Building Architecture

Take a look at buildings and do some primary research - gather some pictures and drawings of angular buildings

Tutorials - Induction unit

Today I had my first university tutor, one-on-one, tutorial. I explained what i had done so far, the trend research, the link to origami, the link with modern futuristic buildings and that i will be continuing my research further with a trip to the V&A tomorrow,so far so good. The direction i was given i did find enlightening, i am to include initial links and research for my essay within the journal for this unit. This will mean using google scholar to find papers that may or may not interest me that are linked to my fmp (final major project) but could possibly form the basis for a 4000 word essay, something that may spark some interest.
key words that are frequently used so far:
origami
sculpture
Japanese pattern cutting
bridal or bridal wear
psychology - although this word has not been used, it is where my interests lie whan it comes to the more academic need for essay research and writing.
look into these key words to find papers with an essay hypothesis or question search in mind.

FAD

 

Cold weather causes many health complaints, including Chilblains, the www.patient.co.uk website suggests that you

Keep your hands and feet warm when out in cold weather by using warm gloves and socks. Consider special heated gloves and socks if chilblains are a recurring problem.

Keep your head and ears warm by wearing a hat and scarf.

You should keep as warm as possible in the cold. Wearing several loose layers is ideal to trap body heat. You should also keep as dry as possible.

(Dr Tim Kenny 26/01/2010)

This supports the need for warmth during the winter months.

Vivienne Westwood's AW2012/13 collection included rich fabrics, lots of draping, with exquisitely fitted long coats with a military, more in the silhouette than with well placed motifs. many of the coats featured a new take on the handkerchief hem

http:/www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2012/ready-to-wear/vivienne-westwood#vivienne-westwood/full-length-photos/gallery/3;

 Love this one! Its beautiful with the hood, layering and corset waist, large pockets, this is a look that I would like to level with my designs.


http:/www.viviennewestwood.co.uk/shop/womenswear/coats-jackets/court-coat-14888;

Vivienne Westwood also seems to trend large collars or hoods, this may be a detail that needs developing as it provides warmth and insulation to the head, neck and face

It maybe interesting to see how layering different kinds of fabrics works on the stand, each with a different type of hemline

4) Try draping on the half stand to help generate volume,
as my father always said 'layers! That'll keep you warm


http:/www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2012/ready-to-wear/viktor-and-rolf#viktor-and-rolf/full-length-photos/gallery/14;

Whilst Viktor and Rolf SW12/13 offered a much more tailored look, but again with layering or sorts

The overlay on the sleeves could double as a scarf, or a hand mit to keep hands and fingers warm, if it possessed a pocket details at the ends



http:/www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2012/ready-to-wear/viktor-and-rolf#viktor-and-rolf/full-length-photos/gallery/23;

 Large pockets, this could help with keeping your hand warm and avoid the added cost of accessories - Important design feature will need to look into including.

Fur!!! this was very big for a trend this winter 2012/13 but do the health benefits outweigh the ethical, moral dilemma attached to using fur (I am not sure if I am knowledgably enough to make a stand so think I will not use actual fur, if I have any fur it would probably be fake - better safe than sorry)

5) Include pockets and a scarf or hood in my design process.
http:/www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2012/ready-to-wear/chanel#chanel/full-length-photos/gallery/30;

For AW2012/13 Chanel used oversized garments that allow for layering beneath, and geometric, shape lines and detailing. Also using wool as the main fabric, this works well for insulation purposes.


Detailing on this piece are centred round the sleeve and the geometric styling that envelopes the arms


http:/www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2012/ready-to-wear/chanel#chanel/full-length-photos/gallery/6;

Again, Chanel has produced oversized coats with large sleeves and geometric lines and shapes for detaining.


Coats for this season: oversized, layered, large pockets and geometric detaining, hoods and scarves.
Details worth remembering during my design development

FAD two week deadline fashion comp!!!!!!!

 Today we were given our first brief, to enter a live brief competition. we have to design two outfits that in someway reflect the future!!!!
After thinking long and hard, spending far too long staring at a blank screen on the laptop and pulling my hair out, and finally after a long conversation with a colleague I finally have a direction. so here goes........

Thinking about global warming and the effects it has on our daily life, taking imro considerarion how that may effect the future, i have decided to design outer wear, coats with the great british weather in mind and although our summer has been mostly wet and miserable, our winters are turning colder and icier. with those points in mind i will design two outfots ready for an icelandic winter in the uk!!!!!!!
1) Firstly I will need to research coat trends and functional.
2) Need to research traditional outer wear that would be worn in colder climates, say, mongolia, iceland, to make sure what is designed is functional as well as forward approaching.
3) Need to look into fabrics that are environmentally sound amd do not hit the pocket hard diring austerity.
I have taken a look at some of the key trends for aw12/13 and have noticed that although financially times are hard, it seems that we still like a little flamboyancy within or wardrobe.

Introduction brief

Have been doing research on evening/bridal wear, looking at Elie Saab couture winter collection on www.vogie.it website. http://www.vogue.it/en/shows/show/haute-couture-fall-winter-2012/elie-saab Saabs 2012 Couture Fall Winter collection wa full of sparkle, golden prints, embellished with sequins and beads to give a very rich and opulent feels, which seems decadent during the financial times we are struggling currently. The fabrics were rich chiffon allowing flowing corolla silhouettes, with organza for stronger shapes. The colours where rich but subtle, with black being the only bold colour, else we see powder blues and soft peach, helping to create an elegance.

It would be nice to at least be able to replicate the finish even if the price ofthe fabrics is out of my budget, for this I will need to do the following
1) Research fabric finishing, how do you finish the raw edges of chiffon and organza to a high standard??
2) Need to research fabrics and see what I can acquire within my budget, and what thier properties are, what shapes can be achieve with them and how much interfacing will be required to acheive the same level of structure

Dennis  Basso has also captured heavy embellishment with his Spring Summer 2013 range of evening wear, http://www.vogue.it/en/shows/show/dennis-basso  however there appears to be a focus on simple silhouettes, with the use of interesting trims andd fabric manipulation to acheive an elegant look that is remenicent of water flowing. There is also a suggestion of a 1940's inspired styling details, such as the below dress found at an exhibition shown by National Museums Liverpool, and on thier website http://www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/walker/craftdesign/costume/1950sdresses/index.aspx

made by Mandell Couture, London, about 1959, which mirrors that shapes of Basso's below

and the use of bias cut to wrap around the famale form, is the way that many 1930's evening wear did.

I will also need to look into the best and most professional ways to finish bias cut dresses, so that they are neatly and most exquisitely finished.

My favoutire evening and bridal wear designer, Marchesa, showed thier spring summer 2013 collection and immedialtey you are taken to india, with bold colours and lots of silvers and golds, rich silks, taffeta, organza and tulle, without forgetting braiding, sequins and lame, soft fabrics finished with sharp edges and beautifully draped full length opulent dresses. Many of their lines included a waterfull effect to the lines, reminicent of the asymmetric styles that were on trend for SS2012.

 http://www.vogue.it/en/shows/show/marchesa

This type of styling may not last yet another season, so it may be a good idea to see where it can be taken for next season and try and move on this detail, taking it in a new direction for AW2013/4 or SS2014
Finally, Douglas Hannant, http://douglashannant.com/ Spring 2013. Hannant used printed fabrics and although they are quite obviously meant for a very special occaission the use of print in this way seems interestingly new.

 This style above is very highly sculpted and looks almost like waterfall with the ripples of fabric behind her, or maybe a paper origami game of fortunetelling that you may have played whilst a child

I will look into the se of printed fabric as apposed to plain fabrics an will look at seeing where origami takes me for design ideas

hopefully I will have a few origami paper folds under my belt before the next blog!! reflect on how I've managed to kill a few tree and produce a pile of rubbish - hopefully not!!!

First Day At Uni

First Day at university to day, Year three!!! This is when it all starts counting, heads down, nose to the grind stone, shoulders to the wheel !! and any other cliches one can think of!!

Introduced to our course tutor, whom we have already met from last years seminars. She seems nice and I think it will be easy working with her this year.

Our first unit is our induction unit, counts for for about 20% of the final grad and will include sketchbook, research and reflection, and this little post for my blog is in essence the first addition to my reflective journal. Reflection is not something I am very good at. I am fine with relaying what has happened but reflecting on that, working out what to do with my feeling towards what happened and what I am going to do next is something I tend to automatically do in my head, so remembering to write is all done without waffle is going to be a struggle. In order for me to try and improve on my struggles i decided to start a blog, hoping that would improve my reflection skills and if nothing else, i may gain some advice from anyone out there who may be bored enough to read my posts!!!

The induction unit also includes research, something else I tend to side line, and a sketchbook. This unit appears to be an introduction to the final major project, it will be how I start building my ideas that will lead into my final project and my dissertation.

Needing to start this I went out to buy my sketchbooks. I hoped this might fuel my inspiration. How do I start? What do I use as initial inspiration? If I have no inspiration, then what will I do to gain some????

I think I will start with.....

I want to design an eveningwear collection
I would like to design bridalwear
I need to research bridal and eveningwear trends
I need to look into fabrics and embellishment
I also need to looking fabric manipulation, something I have a keen interest in
I want to look at reflection to - mirrors, water, windows, silver... I like the idea of using reflection within my project but not sure what or how

Reflection of stars in a lake
Reflection of the sun rippling on the pool
Reflection of the city lights in the sky
Reflection of Lasers in the clouds
Reflection of trees in glass buildings
Reflection of People in their young, reflection of a mother in her daughter......

lots to photograph and draw!!!
loads to research and use!!!

Kids klobber

I've been making trousers for my little girl - Pryce - Three pairs made, will start on a rompasuit next, and photos will follow!!!

Also, taking an interest in indian clothing alterations. I have a lady in Luton who has asked me to alter a fair rew of her clothes - very exciting!!!!

Foundation degree

Just a quick update
Grades for my foundation degree received this morning and I have attained a Distinction!
So over the moon that hard work pays off!
Next step, BA hons here I come!
Fingers crossed its not a fluke!

Exhibition

Complete!
I would like to take the opportunity to thank steph, our 1st year helper.
My Fashion Girls, Robyn, Tara, Emily and Olivia, who without, my year would be less fun and a little empty. And Janice, elisa, and Hannah, the tutors at barnfield, who without.re fabulous, amazing and wonderful and the college is lucky to have them on the payrole!
And now that I have completed my 2nd yeah, final year of FdA and awaiting final year of my degree, I await my results, which come out on 28th June! OMG! All I can say!

Exhibition

One day to go! Eeck!
Right, still gotta sort out hanging my hood, which could be interesting! We will try and make it look as though its being worn without any sign of anybody wearing it! Any ideas?

Exhibition

Well! Nearly completed the build!
Have to finish off on Monday afternoon as the floor still has not been cleaned! Anyway it will be ready for the opening and private view Monday at six then the exhibition is open to the public Tuesday to Friday 9-5, Barnfield College, New Bedford Road, Luton, Bedfordshire. All are welcome!

In the meantime here are some photos to show the build

Exhibition

My clothes are now on the mannequins are covered with purple, so that is a good thing!
The exhibition space is lovely and white! Maybe needing one more coat this morning.
I'm will stop off at B&Q this morning and buy my purple paint and shelf for my business cards but for the time being, here is a sneak peak at my space!

Exhibition

Yesterday was mostly spent gum taping boards and filling over holes and nails. We managed to put up one coat of paint and this morning we get to find out where we will be positioned! Eek! There are so many places I really don't wanna be placed! Just a little worried now!
I will take pics of the development and show later!
Wish me luck!

Exhibition

Not going well! We have to wait till the 8ft boards go up that form the walls for our exhibition. They were supposed to be up on Friday, then by Monday and then by Monday noon, now not till tomorrow lunchtime! So nothing to report for today.
I did buy the fabric that is to cover my mannequins, purple! The man in the fabric shop said that they will be covered in cadbury chocolate! Sounds good to me, love chocolate!

Bling it on!

Tried to create a design on cream satin using clear and rose pink diamantes.
Using a paper template I drew out my design then using a pattern wheel I traced the design. I then used every second hole to identify my design and then transferred it onto the fabric as a stencil.
This process worked well and I like the control it gave me but for future images I think I should experiment with templates. Using acetate paper would help with being able to identify where to repeat place the stencil. I will try this way, hopefully next week but will be arranging my exhibition so may not be able to continue with this until after 25th June but you can see the pictures of what I have already achieved.

Bling it on!

Started small!
What do ya think?
Placing a few blings down the back of a pair of heels, I think it gives a bit of sparkle without going OTT!
I like them but it will be interesting finding out how long they will last!

Bling'it on!

This morning my hotfix applicator arrived! Oh so yay! I will begin to Bling what I can and practice practice practice.
I am in the process of making a wedding dress for a Bedfordshire lady who wants a little sparkle added to the bodice. Clear and rose pink. I already have a few Swarovski crystals to apply by thread and hand sewing but not sure yet how to arrange them.

Artwork

Trying to stop myself from becoming bored, I decided to paint. This will be one of many things I end up doing over the summer

Exhibition Update

Exhibition opens 25th June, and nothing is fitting on the Mannequins!!!! Had to dismantle the long dress so that it will fit and the little dress just doesn't seem to want to go on the dummy!
I have decided to walk away and have a breather - maybe it will work better if I am in a better frame of mind or if I ask assistance from my colleagues on Monday

Time will tell