Creative Pattern Cutting

I have manipulated my pictures from my draping on the stand exercise and have added the bodice from the first exercise to the outfit from the second exercise to see if the bodice works and if it looks nice and I think I really like it.

I think it gives the outfit and the sculptured parts on the bottom of the dress, balance. I also like that it only appears on the left hand side of the garment, giving the look an asymmetric feel, but I think I will look to see what the outfit would feel like with the pleating on both sides, just so that the idea can be eliminated with fact and research and evidence.

Now all I need to do is convert the draped pleated bodice part into a flat pattern that works and can be manufactured with the existing pattern bodice.

I think I will add it as and additional layer and insert it into the middle seam and the side seam, but I will need to increase the middle hem line so that is runs parallel with the existing bodice lines.

Creative Pattern Cutting, more.

Have attempted some more draping using an alternative method. Started with creating a bodice block by draping the fabric on the stand and pinning where the darts, or panels will form. Then growing the outfit from a basic block shape so that it is more structured and angular.
I've decided to see if the fabric will hold a structure growing from layers with in the skirt part of the outfit.
I think that in order to achieve this with permanence I will need to include some boning in the elevated section.
I have also looked into adding a cuff around the shoulder, but I do not think I like it too much.

I would like to try and add the bodice from my first draping attempt onto this outfit to see if it will work.
I am going to add it to Photoshop and manipulate the pictures to see how it will look, but in the meantime I will use this exercise to make my flat pattern.

Creative Pattern Cutting

I have done some experiments with draping on the stand to try and create a design like Marchesa or Cirnansck. I have included pleating to create a bodice shape, I like this shape and would very much like to include it in my final design for this project but I am not convinced with the whole gown look.

I have cinched in the waist with a piece of fabric in red poly satin in a rich red. This will help with the hourglass silhouette.

I decided to use the same colour fabric at the bottom of the gown to balance the colour, but the design would work equally as a cocktail dress with the bottom red removed.

I would like to carry on draping on the standard try and create something more sculptured and more angular.
 Will need to try this process again and see if I can create an alternative look.

.

Creative Pattern Cutting Brief

Looking into Draping on the stand, I have researched some YouTube tutorials so that I know how to get started. I have learnt that mostly draping consists of taking fabric and allowing it to form shapes on the form, naturally or using the dummy to pin unusual shapes to using a basic bodice of dress form to gain avant-garde designs.

I have also learnt that some pattern cutters are given a design by the designer and it is their job to create the pattern for the designer, which they may do starting from draping on the stand to create not only the shapes required but also the feel that the fashion illustration conveys.

Jeremy Laing

Diane Kruger 

Designers that look at though they use draping to allow the fabric to show them which designs they can achieve are Jeremy Laing and Diane Kruger. Their designs seem to hang from the body in a way that is in balance with the fabric, it looks effortless and natural. Although this style of design looks very beautiful, it lacks the wow that I want to achieve, it doesn't seem to defy itself and looks quite organic. I like to design a more sculptured style, something that reflects the themes I design from, something with more strength.

Marchesa

Marchesa

Marchesa has many styles that have this strength within the design  a more sculptured and more contrived look. I like this type of draping and would like to achieve something like this from myself.

Marchesa seem to include angular shapes but still gives each dress a softness that seems paralleled by nature. Although they include triangles and pointed shapes, you are still left with a sense of the dress being part of a beautiful flower.

This is a concept I would like to be able to achieve, and allow my garments to translate

Moschino

Cirnansck

The final looks that I have researched and I like that appear to have been created by draping on the stand are ones that use the fabric to wrap shapes in to the figure, these designers seem to use the waist as a natural point to nip in the silhouette quite tightly, causing a beautiful hour glass outline. Designers that use this style are Moschino and a designer called Samuel Cirnansck. Cirnansck includes a heavily embellished bodice that looks as though a flower has dew sprinkled on its petals. I like this style, and I like the effect the nipped in waist gives the silhouette  I would very much like to use this idea but am unsure how it will work with the background my final project is heading towards.

All these pictures are from Stylesight


I will need to practice draping on the stand and see if I can achieve any of the ideas I like and see if I can achieve angular looks without compromising the softness of a feminine silhouette.
1. Find fabric that will drape but will equally fold and hold structure.
2. Experiment with draping to produce feminine shapes with a twist
3. Include manipulation of fabric to create a bodice with a nipped in waist.

Creative Pattern Cutting Project cont.....

After some research into draping on the stand I can now understand that it is very useful for designing fluid and flowing collections. Lanvin appears to use draping on the stand for their collections. Lanvin shows how fabric can be draped over the female from with such skill it makes the outfits look effortless.
As beautiful as this is, it is also not a look I am trying to achieve, although it may be one I could explore with fabric initially to see if it suits me before I completely write it off.
I have also looked at Vionnet, their collections also appear to use draping as Madeleine Vionnet was famous for this method and it is something that become a signature of her designs along with bias cut silhouettes, so it is only fitting that it would still be used by the current design team.
I like the pleating and the idea of the volume and lines that the fabric create. I still want a more sculpted look, something a little more angular, a little more controlled.
I will continue researching draping designers and look into Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen, I want to also look at Comme des Garcon and some of the couture designers like Dior.
I have started to drape on the stand, and I con honestly say it is a lot harder than it looks.

I started by trying to make the fabric follow the forms of the dummy. trying to create a wrapped design around the bust and to a bustle at the rear and included an origami shape that I hemmed to see if it would hold together.
I want to find some taffeta or heavier more rigid satin to see if I can achieve better origami with a stiffer fabric, but I like the idea of a bustle made from origami flower type creations, however the draping on the stand needs work and better fabric may achieve this.
I also tried to create a cuff like form over the corset bust top edge. Not sure if draping is the best way to achieve this result either.

Creative Pattern Cutting

Been given a new brief, to research designers that may use Draping on the stand to generate designs, then using my final major project designing process to help produce some creative designs using draping methods and deconstruct my efforts to enable to production of a flat pattern and from that a toile of the work, followed by some design development generated from the process.
This caused me some trauma!! I am comfortable with flat pattern cutting and would even consider myself as quite proficient, however draping on the stand and the levels of freedom this suggests is far too much pressure for me. I think I have the ability to see in my head the 3D version of my designs, fully finished  and I am able to mentally pull the design apart and lay it flat on the table. Draping on the stand requires that you forget this and work in a different way, which is quite difficult for me as I am already very comfortable with the flat pattern process.
However, it is a brief that requires just as much focus and dedication as all the other projects, regardless of whether it is within my comfort zone of not.
I need to research designers that drape - to start with I will look at Vivienne Westwood, Lanvin and Vionnet and see where these take me
I will also need to research the process of draping on the stand, how you should start, what you need to do in order to complete the job, look up some online videos and tutorials and then play with a few ideas.

Sainsburys TU Brief - final illustrations

I decided to go with brights but tone down the colours slightly as I believe it is more fitting for the Sainsburys signature so going with a more mustard yellow and a more navy blue. The final line up will be 6 outfits comprising of a short and jacket combo, including a blue check print on the short turn up. The jacket will include elements of the boxy jackets seen on the runway from Chanel but a little more fitted. The other outfits, a dress, skirt, shirt dress, trousers, shirt and peplum waistcoat/shirt. All items can be worn separately with items already possessed in a customers wardrobe but equally can be worn interchangeably with each other. It would make sense for Sainsburys to include each item in alternate colourways, example: the mustard shorts should also be available in blue with yellow check or white with coloured turn-up. The white shirt dress could also be available with blue trim and so on. This would increase the customers choice without adding cost to production, as it would use fabrics that are already being purchased. Using poly cottons and gingham's, with suiting fabrics in blue and mustard's and viscose mix fabrics.

The crit went well, it appears I have covered all the areas requested within the brief, it may be that areas could be improved on, but that is always true of work. Nothing is ever truly complete, everything can always be improved on or added to, but sooner of later you need to put things into perspective and use your time productively. Next brief 'creative pattern cutting', research, experiment and design.

Sainsburys brief - getting into the personality

I needed to produce a Customer Profile, a visual profile of the lady that shops in Sainsbury's but more crucially in TU.
I visited the stores, I listened and looked at the clothes they sold and the people that where in the store. I understand that they store has two key customers. The actual obvious customer, she is a lady that will always shop in the store, she needn't be worried about but equally do not ignore her. Then there is the aspirational customer, the customer that sainsburys would like to aspire to solicit. The ideal, the customer that they can make money out of and as ugly as that sounds, it the reality of business.
This customer is a mum of two or three children, she is a busy mum. One that holds down a well paid job that will probably be part-time in some fashion. She and her husband have a comfortable lifestyle, which has become a little tighter since the recession. She drives the modern, bright family car, probably a 4x4, he drives the car they refer to as 'The Wreck', it is only to take him to work and back and he feels much happier knowing the family have the safer car at their disposal.
She shops on the run, mostly. She likes Sainsburys because it offers her a wide range of healthy meal choices, it offers her choice for packed lunches and it offers her a basics range she can rely on. This is a key word for her when she shops, reliability. She like to shop in stores she can rely on. She has to shop online most of the time and rarely has the time to try clothes on, so want to make sure she shops where she knows the customer service will be excellent.
She buys most of the family clothes in stores such as Next and Debenhams but likes to take advantage of bargains, so doesn't snub supermarket clothes, they are excellent for school wear and she buys a lot of her husbands 'undies' there too. She gets all his workwear from Next, but the odd item has been known to make its way into her shopping trolley.
She like to browse around the TU Women section too, and likes that it keeps trying to reinvents itself, and its clothes reflect the fashion sections in her Sunday magazines. Their new Top Shop range is very exciting, fashionable but safe. She knows she can rely on its sense of style, but equally she can spice it up with other items from her wardrobe for those occasions she is feeling fashionably confident.
She take any chance she can to take care of her health, she runs when she can and always tries to eat fresh vegetables and fresh fruit. This is also reflected in her sportswear, she doesn't spend that much on these items and likes the fact the TU has some fair priced, easy to wear jogging clothes.
Our Sainsburys family are an aspirational family for most but if you look a little more carefully, they are actually not that different from most of us, they are anyone and everyone.

Induction Brief, proposal

At present I am working on a proposal for my Induction Brief deadline. Friday 4pm. 

The proposal must follow a pattern, introduction, design ethos, customer profile, aims, objectives........

I am finding this quite interesting, having to justify to myself and to the rest of the world how my work is relevant. I wish I could have followed all of my research up with a proposal as it has helped me to have faith in my work, to believe that what I am doing is interesting and inspired. I am enjoying this project far more than any of my previous and am looking forward to researching further and to actually researching for my essay.

My essay will be worked around couture and haute-couture and whether there is any need or desire for either in this modern world we live in, I will look into the history and the birth of couture (Haute) and follow its chronological path, I will look into how it has altered throughout the years and what effect modern times has had on the art. I will look at all levels from high end designer to the dress maker on the corner, I will look into the craft of couture and the standards that are required, hopefully using many within my practical project

I am hoping that my research for my major project will assist my research for my essay and that one will become the other. I want my final year to work as a whole as well as individual parts.

I need to look into which books I will need to borrow from the library and which websites I need to cite.

I need to print off my blog so that it can be handed in as a hard copy, this in itself is not straight forward as it is not easy to print from this website - will need to look into how to do this best

I will need to run through all the information I have used and cited within my work so far and create a bibliography - Harvard referencing style

Induction Brief - more Essay

I have been quietly thinking about my essay whilst continuing my Induction Brief unit and I have come up with some ideas, originally I wanted to do something about 'The Rituals of Dressing Up' but am struggling to find the sort of material I want. I have continued to think and see what areas will reflect my work and as I would like to create a couture collection, and there is some debate as to whether couture is a dying area of the fashion sphere, I think I would like to look into whether Couture is dead????

• I will look into the definition of couture.
• The skills require, in order to be able to produce couture work - you've gotta start somewhere!!
• The difference between Haute Couture and plain Couture
• How did the couture business start
• Who started it
• Why was the phrase 'Haute Couture' coined
• What maintains the business Haute and couture
• What has happened to the discipline during economical downturn - austerity?

I will start by looking in the following bibliography:
Couture sewing techniques / Claire B. Shaeffer
Shaeffer, Claire B
Newtown, CT : Taunton Press, c2011
250 p. : ill. (some col.) ; 26 cm.
The dressmaker's handbook of couture sewing techniques : essential step-by-step techniques for profe
Maynard, Lynda
London : A. & C. Black, 2010
160 p. ill, spiral bound
Couture in the 21st century / by Deborah Bee ; portraits by Rankin
Bee, Deborah
London : Harrods ; London : A&C Black, 2010
160 p. : ill.
Secret world of haute couture [DVD] / BBC
London : BBC, 2008
1 DVD (60 mins)
The Zapp method of couture sewing / Anna Zapp
Zapp, Anna
Iola, Wis. : Krause ; Newton Abbot : David & Charles, c2004
128 p. : col. ill. ; 28cm.
Couture culture [electronic resource] : a study in modern art and fashion / Nancy J. Troy.
Troy, Nancy J.
Cambridge, Mass. : MIT Press, c2003.
xii, 438 p. : ill. ; 24 cm.
Couture sewing techniques / Claire B. Shaeffer
Shaeffer, Claire B.
Newtown, Conn. ; [Great Britain] : Taunton, 1993 (2001 [printing])
217 p. : ill. (some col.) ; 26 cm.
L'officiel de la couture et de la mode Paris
Paris : Editions Jalou Sa
Irregular
Collezioni haute couture
Modena : Logos
2 issues per year
Couture Culture: A Study in Modern Art and Fashion [electronic resource].
MIT Press
Balenciaga and his legacy : haute couture from the Texas Fashion Collection / Myra Walker
Walker, Myra, 1954-
Dallas : In association with the Meadows Museum, c2006
xvii, 162 p. : ill. (some col.) ; 32 cm.
How fashion works : couture, ready-to-wear, and mass production / Gavin Waddell
Waddell, Gavin
Oxford, UK ; Ames, Iowa : Blackwell Science, 2004
xii, 211 p. : il
Also I will use the Internet websites, such as Vogue.com and trendsetter.com and the news paper websites. Hopefully this will provide me with a way forward for my essay and hopefully I will then be able to plan my essay, paragraph by paragraph, what to include and what to not include. Also I hope it will give me a more focused title and concept.

Induction, colour, print??

I have draped Wall paper on the stand to help me gain ideas for colour and print for my Final Major Project.
I want my collection to have a Couture fell, they need to shout beauty, structure and vulnerability. I want to design evening wear/ bridal/ couture wear.
I need to look into Couture. What it means and what makes something couture. I do not mean the french Haute Couture. I want to make custom made, made to measure garments, one offs for someones special occasion.

The colour would need to reflect the occasion. What is the occasion? Maybe a wedding, maybe the Red Carpet, maybe an exhibition piece with three or four more wearable pieces.

I want to design for a Fall collection, rather than summer. I want the heaviness of the structure to be balanced by the colour.
I tried draping stripes, large prints, pinks, black and whites, silver (a colour I was interested in using after visiting the V&A Ballgown exhibition) and purples.

I like the stripes but I think there is a possibility that they drown the look, maybe mix with a plain colour. This could be useful to engage the other outfits within the collection.

I am not sure about the colours though, they look like an ethnic tribal clothing look. This is not the look I am after. Maybe try a two colour look, maybe black and white, maybe as I like these two colours mixed with the silver. This give a sharp and clean look and the white maintains a vulnerability.
Need to look for fabric like this. Stripe, white, black and silver.

Induction again!!!!

More work in my sketchbook has made me look into the London skyline and the buildings that encompass it. The shapes of some of them remind me of origami or folded paper. The structure is hard yet beautiful. I took some photo's whilst in London of the various building and was very interested in the way some looked like pleated fabrics in the skirt of a ball gown.


I also liked the way some of the buildings had scaffolding on them adding to the lines created like a column in the middle, lets say a bias cut dress, tight and narrow, with a layer of scaffolding added as a layer over the top, like a cage, which also reminded me of a Jean-Paul Gaultier dress from Haute Couture Fall 08/09
http://www.huffingtonpost.com/
Loving the idea of the structure being a single layer. A cage that surrounds the wearer, to protect or to hold inside????

The Saffold 2003 Steven Kenny

This reminds me of the artist Steven Kenny http://www.stevenkenny.com His work has both a protection and safe guard feeling. The artist seems to paint his objects as if they are vulnerable yet there is something about them that makes you lightly fearful. This in itself give the paintings a primitive beauty yet a carnival of darkness awe.

Maybe use elements of this idea within my design development. But not compromising the beauty within the awe.

Induction Brief continued again....

Ive been busy adding to my sketchbook and I feel as though its going in an interesting direction.
The origami i have produced has made me create shapes around the structure and stiffness of paper.

My Origami

I like the way it looks like a flower but also has the hardness that allows further structure to be placed upon it, like Dior's creations for SS07.



Dior SS07

I like the enormous structures attached to the dress and would like to have a dress that has the impact of a 'here I am people' dress, yet maintaining a fairy story beauty.


Still need to investigate colour. I will need to visit a DIY shop and get some wall paper, drape on the stand and see how colour and print could look on 3D. Hopefully this will help to gain some kind of idea for impact but also beauty.


Induction Brief, Essay??!!??

Today I had a tutorial with my tutor. I was very confused regarding my essay after the seminar last week and had a block regarding one sentence that was discussed during the Seminar. We had to write down what our major project theme was, we then had to consider for our essay, 'how we would contextualise this with theory'. This had me stumped for about two hours and after the tutor tried to explain and define what this means for about the fifth time, I felt confused and lost and starting to doubt my initial thought as to where I would like to go with my essay. I decided to gain some prospective from friends on 'Facebook' and ask around to see if they could shed some light on my confusion.

Top of Form

' How will you contextualise your major project proposal with theory???'
WHAT??????
Can anyone enlighten me????
My brain was about to give up on me yesterday after my seminar!!!!
HEEEELLLLPPPPP!!!!

• Richard O'Reilly contextualise = put into context, like frame of reference. theory is one of the approaches u may take to explain ur research into whatever it is, conceptual, theoretical, empirical and normative usual
• Sarah Oakley Hodges I was told that contextualise referred to looking at the past and what has already taken place, whilst theory refers to how you will broaden your knowledge. is that the opposite of what You say Richard or the same, i'm confused! bloody academics! why use three small words when one large and complicated one will do more harm!
• Richard O'Reilly ye thats about right Sarah, depending on the subject area contextualise could easily mean looking at the past, i think uve got it sussed dnt get hung up about it, lotsd of long stupid words to mean something quite simple lol
• Andrew Anderson It basically means you have to quote and reference theorists who have looked at this area before. You then put your ideas against theirs

Bottom of Form

I also decided to speak to my tutor during my tutorial. I now have perspective on my essay choice and confidence that what I want to do is an acceptable way to go and will cover the briefs requirements, that it will just be up to me to carry out the essay writing to show a level six Degree students work effectively.

For my essay, I have decided to look into the rituals of dressing up, after an article I read in a book I bought at the V&A regarding the Ballgowns: British Glamour since 1950. The piece was entitled 'The rituals of dressing up'. I want to research why we dress up, I want to look into the dress codes for occasions and how these dress codes have changed over the years. What do we dress-up for in modern terms? Is it only Weddings or do we in fact dress up for many different events it’s only the codes that have changed?

I want to start by looking into both royalty and their dress codes, history and the dress codes but also the changes that have been made through history, including the LBD (the little black dress) and how the liberation of women has changed the way we dress for that very special day in our lives.

Sainsburys Visit - some outcomes?

Reflecting on my trip to Sainsburys and on the reports I composed as a result, I think it would be beneficial for Sainsburys to include some funkier mix and match suits, From my report I could see that they have many options for a young employee who needs to dress smartly but with a more casual spin, but when it comes to being suited and booted, maybe for that amazing interview you have or that really important meeting where you want to make sure you stand out. I think there is a need for a smart suit with interchanging pieces for a 6 outfit capsule wardrobe.

After my visit to Sainsburys, I noticed that they only provided basic trouser suits in boring but conventional black, grey and blue, or they have more casual smart wear for the everyday office.

Whilst I was in the store I overheard a very interesting conversation between a young employee, who by her own account has worked within the TU section of this store for 4 years. Her conversation took place with a TU womenswear planner from head office, which apparently is one of two new role, the other being the planner for menswear. They were talking about the TU ranges and the Planner was asking the TU ground floor employee what her views on the clothing were. She explained that over her 4 years in the section she has notice a considerable change in the clientele over the last year, which coincides with the new 'Top Shop' range that targets a newer, younger market (20-35yrs), a New Look/Top Shop type brand that caters to an area of the market that had previously been ignored by TU. The employee went on to explain that over the last year she had noticed that the TU section had been flooded with a younger more fashionable woman and that sales have increased for their store. She explained that the new brand was excellent and that she was really excited about it, that she would previously not have shopped in the store for herself but that had changed over the last twelve months.

This shows that they have now tapped a previously ignored area and from what I saw in this store, it leave very few gaps in the market. Sainsburys seem to have catered for just about everyone, but does that mean they have made themselves a Jack of all Trades instead of being a Master of one? I don't think so, I think that have managed to do what they and other stores like them, do best. They make clothes for the everyday person, they target they impulse buyers, the spontaneous purchase. I am sure that Sainsburys are not naive enough to think that what they offer is a brand that their market rushes out to buy. They are, for fashion, a secondary purchase. Their customer is firstly, a Next shopper or M&S, or Debenhams, of on a different area of the business, a New Look customer or Top Shop customer and use Sainsburys as a a place that they buy their weekly shopping and maybe, if they have time, if they are on their lunch break or if time is on their side for once, they will have a quick look around the clothes and maybe there will be something that they can throw into their shopping trolley that might make their purchases from the other stores that they love so much a little more guilt free on the bank balance

This is why I will design a softly tailored, but on trend capsule wardrobe. This wardrobe will include a trouser suit and a skirt suit and a dress.

I need to look at other Brands and what they have to offer in this department. Look at Next and River Island. I need to look at what is on trend for this look at the moment and which of those ideas and features would translate to a Sainsburys customer.

Sainsburys Trend Report AW12 Ladies Wear

Sainsburys TU Brief

Right, I have visited the store, London Colney, Colney Fields, looked at the ranges they had to offer and the styles, prices and fabrics. I have taken notes in the hope that I will learn something about Sainsburys that will help me find some kind of direction for my project.

Shop Report

Whilst, shopping and taking notes, I was surprised that they initially open their TU department with both Goks new range but also next to this you will find their Knitwear. I would not have put these two next to one another as it suggests that this is all they have to offer if you are interested in the Gok fashion range, which I later found to be incorrect. They have a wealth of clothing within their department and they have tried not to leave any body out.

*They have comfortable classics, Knitwear, T-shirts, long sleeve and short, They have Jeans, a whole range of Jeans, coloured, printed, wet look/faux leather look, boot legged, skinny, boyfriend, tapered. All of which are muted colours: blue, black, burgundy, dark teal, mustard. and the prints are same colour prints, jacquard prints. with prices ranging from £12-25

*They have Shoes and Accessories. Their shoes are mostly safe fashion options, Blacks, Browns and Greys, with the occasional colour within their ballet pumps only. At the end of one aisle, they had some 'on trend' shoes, that could be marketed to the younger girl, maybe 20-40yrs, they age bracket being so large because it is my feeling that the shoes are very safe fashion trends, not too high heels and although they follow the animal print trend, for example, the style is a safe style (a high court) and the tones of the animal print are dark and not quite so outrageous, it would not be necessary to be confident within your fashion sense to be able to get away with the fashion trend. Prices from £16-£45

*The have Leisure Wear, which includes sportswear of which they have many sports joggers and leggings and many vest tops for gym wear. Leisure wear also includes day-wear tops, which consist of fancier 50% cotton 50% Modal tops, printed and plain, with small amounts of trend detailing. Ruched sleeves, applique attached to the front side chest area made from rolled t-shirt fabric to give a more interesting look to tops and also gathers on the reverse neck seam or on the front at the bottom of a V neck, at price points £8-14.

Evening wear in purples and black

* They have what they refer to as 'smart wear', which includes going out wear and at present appears to consist of Christmas party wear which has on trend detailing. sleeveless shift dresses with an over layer in lace in black and purple at £25, along with embellished, with sparkle vest tops and flouncy blouses.
Sparkle and purple and black being the details of the moment.


* Coats where muted colours, black, khaki, blue and burgundy, belted for the detail of the season - £45. Party, metallic in silver or bronze with a heavy Damask type fabric, two toned with black - £60 and swing styled coats with a military feel, faux fur collar and cuff and mock leather bucket fastening in black or burgundy - £35


* They also have their more upmarket knits and jackets. Cashmere knits with expensive looking sparkle buttons on a plain 'Breakfast at Tiffenys' style cropped sleeve, round neck cardigans and waterfall front cardigans at £50.

*They also cater to the essentials - office wear trousers, very plain in style in black, grey or blue at very affordable prices - £12-20. They also display jersey/knits, Large cowl collars and chunky cardigans from £18-20, with more slimline jumpers and cardigans in classic styles and soft but bolder colours.

*Finally the jewel in their crown, a label that is called Top Shop, not sure how long that will last, this is a range that seem to target the 'New Look/Top Shop' clientele. This is a range that surprised me and made me think twice about shopping in TU. The clothes are safely fashionable. There are no statement pieces and nothing is adventurous but everything is on trend and pleasing to the eye. Blouses with two-toned piping on the cuff and around the collars. We also see pencil skirts in lace print and animal prints, blouses with ties round the neckline in teals and Burgundy's with all over prints at £20, many tops are shear and 100% polyester, tapered trousers in mustard, and bird print shirts with black collar and button extensions. Sainsburys is a label that can start bragging about itself!!

Pattern Cutting Exercise

Designing a shift dress with displaced seams and darts



Front View

Today in my pattern cutting class we had to displace the seams and darts in a simple shift dress. I had already drawn off the shift dress block pattern onto fabric, poly cotton, and sewn it together in preparation for the lesson so started the lesson by placing my toille on the stand and initially drawing the toille onto a piece of paper and playing with a few guidelines to start me off.

I ended up with the views below.




Back View

I found the process very interesting, deciding where to place the lines so that the pattern will lay flat without too much manipulation later on. I like the way there is a balance of straight lines and curves. I like the ideas of maybe using these lines to add 3D panels that maybe jut out at you. Or maybe add layers or use this in combination with origami ideas to produce a new idea. Maybe also this could be used to develop a woven effect with layers overlapping each other and then rejoining the seams.

Next I will need to ensure that my pattern actually works by converting to a flat pattern on paper and then reproducing the garment in fabric not forgetting seam allowances and notches and making it fully lined with fastenings

 



Sainsbury's TU Brief

Straight after our crit on Thursday we received our new project, to research and spot a potential gap in TU's clothing ranges by developing a customer profile board, a trend board and design 6 outfits that could be sold in the store that answer to that gap.
I have started researching the stores demographic to try and help me ascertain their customer profile as i believe that once this has been established the other details will fall into place much more easily.
Research has taken me to a company called Experian, a company that develop customer profiling and arrange 'consumer classification systems' on behalf of major blue chip companies so that they can market and target correctly.
I have read each of the classification's and am finding it really hard to believe that any of them would be typical Salisbury's TU shoppers. Salisbury's as a whole suggest a well to do couple with good jobs, liberal views, a young family, urban and stylish, but I struggle to believe that this couple would also buy their clothes from Salisbury's and not Next or Debenhams.
I need to have a word with my tutor, see if she can help me to get things clarified a little more., maybe help me to look at things in a different way. I am also going to discuss with my peers, hopefully between us I can get a clearer picture of our Salisbury's  demographic.

I will also need to find information out buy visiting a store and maybe sending an email to their Head Office, but I can not gaurantee a reply, I am very aware that although this project is one of my priorities it will not be a prioority for a Sainsbury's employee, So I need a plan that will work because I am relying on my hard work and practice not someone elses.

Need to visit a large Sainsbury's and take a good look at the clothing:

1. What types of clothing do they offer?
2. What types of fabric do they use?
3. What types of styles do they sell?
4. What areas of design do they cover? Lingerie, nightwear, casual, business, fashion, special occaision?
5. What age ranges do they cater for?
6. What types of detailing do they add to thier garments?
7. How much detailing do they have per garment? Is there a limit to avoid overloading the budget?
8. Do they include embellishment on their garments?

Induction Brief

I have been thinking about my brief and the journey I have taken so far. I have drawn comparisons to origami and Japanese Pattern Cutting and structure. It occurred to me whilst visiting London that all these thing have similarities to building structure, with their straight lines and geometric shapes

 The buildings have folds, and geometric shapes within their architecture, they have shape and form and they have symmetry.

The building show strength but equally sit beautifully amongst its eclectic scenery.

1. See if the building sculpture shapes can be gained by paper folding - fabric folding and pleating
2. See if silhouettes can be gained from the building shapes

Professional Practice

Within this unit, it is required that I research 5 designers/brands, create a CV, portfolio, and cover letter, send them off to each of the five designers researched and chase up in the hope for internships.
Now I understand that the benefits would far outweigh the negatives for a twenty year old seeking to start thier career but I am struggling to understand how I can embrace this project.
I have a rough twenty years experience within the fashion industry, of sorts, and truely beleive any firm that I would be interested in gaining experience from would equally benefit from having me on thier books. I have a lot to offer and due to both my age, my experience and my personal circumstances would find it quite difficult to give my time to an employer for free. So I have to make a desicion.... Do I send off my CV only asking for paid work, this would mean looking at larger firms based in London, which would equally mean spending more money to get to their place of work and meaning spending more time away from my children, requiring that I organise child care, which I can not afford, of biting the bullet and chasing local bridal designers, who would be unable to pay me but may be more flexible with when and how I would intern and it would mean that I would be able to keep the impact upon my family to a minimum but it would more than likely be unpaid!!!!! Mortgage, bills, food, heating, husband does not run his own multinational business, we need money!!
What to do????

After thinking about it I think I will look into local designers, and see if I can acquire work with them on a very part-time schedule, in order for me to gain knowledge and understanding of small businesses and how they run, but without too much home-life upheaval.

time to ponder and think about what to do and how to do it!!!

FAD - Closure

Yesterday we had our FAD "Crit", which is a presentation of our FAD project to the rest of the class. We digitally presented a maximum of 20 images that would help to summarise our final drawings along with our final illustrations and we had to hand in our flats, or working drawings that would support our designs and a 200 word rationale.

I thought the crit went well, As I have taught to classes level 1 students before, the idea of standing in front of a group does not bother me too much, however the idea of what I am saying and the work I present is being judged, whether formally or not, does bother me. I am not overly precious about my work, quite the reverse in fact, I do not overly lack confidence, but I know my limitations and my weaknesses and they lie within my sketchbook work. I am not good with the and I am trying to overcome and free myself from my over analysing ways and just put things onto paper without boundaries but it is not easy and then it gets worse when your piers get to see it all on a large computer wall screen. This is the very reason I decided to write my reflective journal online in the form of a Blog, in the hope that I may improve my confidence with critical feedback on my work.

All of this being said, I felt it went pretty well and hand some very good feedback, along with some points that I may consider before handing in this project for formal marking in February.
I was advised to perhaps look at my figure and make sure that she sits well with the ethos of the design. That perhaps in this instance she could have been a little more earthy, less futuristic looking, perhaps she looks a little too polished. so perhaps for final hand in I may alter her face a little, make her a little more nomadic.
This two week experience, although hard work and stressful, has taught me that, with guidance and support I can achieve something that I thought was impossible, I can produce work that is competitive beside my colleagues. And that I enjoy Illustrator and Photoshop a lot more that 3D work.

Maybe I should look into how I can use CAD work within my sketchbook more and in different more diverse ways. Maybe I should embrace what I enjoy and see how far I can take it within my work whilst still challenging myself, throughout.

FAD - Update

Thursday - Tutorials. This went OK. We had a group session and I think it went pretty well, however I did have some concerns that I didn't really want to share with a group, self absorbed concerns that wouldn't have been fair sharing and taking up group time with. I wanted assurances that I was heading in the right direction with my sketchbook. I wanted to know how well, if at all, I had answered the brief.
If the truth be known, I have little interest in winning the competition, although I know it is 'beneficial to network and gain contacts within a very competitive industry and to make a name for ourselves', but I have little interest in gaining notoriety globally or indeed nationally. I have a simple destination when it comes to this degree, GET A FIRST!!! All I want is to get a good qualification and start my own, low key, business. I have kid and they will come first in our lives until they are old enough to look after themselves. Then and only then will I return to a more serious time keeping career. So my plan? Get a really good qualification, then make dresses for people on a very part-time basis. Slowly grow that business. So FAD, this is, to me, possible points that add up to my final mark. which is why it is important to me to make sure I fully understand the brief and show that within my work. I want the best mark I can achieve.
After all the tutorials had finished I managed to gain a little time with the tutor to go through my sketchbook. I then understood that I have not quite appreciates the brief, I have concentrated on current trends and not understood that this brief is more about using your imagination and designing something without trend boundaries. The tutor advised that I revisit my initial inspiration and perhaps go from there.
I was firstly devastated, the timescale was too small to be heading in the wrong direction. Then after a night of thinking about it and researching the Tibetan tribes and their culture, I decided that I would take m inspiration of a Tibetan woman, and her dress. This would be my starting point.
http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1242046/dress/
I then remembered that whilst I was at the V&A I was interested in an outfit by Balenciaga, France, A/W 2004, which use a combination of fabrics, wool and suede. which lead me to thing about the fabrics that I may use within my design process.

Look into natural fabrics, wool, felt, leather, fur. maybe look into using patchwork..

Research into the traditional clothing worm by Tibetan women has shown that they wear beautifully striped aprons. These where traditionally worn by married women only but more recently all women have enjoyed wearing them.
http://www.amazingtibettravel.com/tibet-culture/tibetan-apron.htm
This has urged me to use colour within my design and look into different ways of developing that colour. Pathcwork or ragrug construction
'Early rugs consisted of three major forms, identified by their method of construction. The first was made with a strong, firm cloth base to which other material was stitched to make it thick and warm.'http://www.ragberrydesigns.co.uk/page4.html

Warmth being the main purpose of my design and crucial to my rationale
Maybe need to try some samples of ragrugging, as my mum taught me how to do this when I was younger and I have used this style within a different project of mine and have been meaning to find a way to grow the idea into something more usable.

Look into patchwork and ragrugs
Start my design development
create some samples for sketchbook

V&A Visit

Yesterday I visited the V&A to do some research for both my Induction Brief and the FAD project. Looking round the new look Fashion Gallery with its extra floor, that is currently dedicated to the Ballgown Exhibition, and what an exhibition!!!
Many of the dresses where amazing, the Giles Deacon 2007, Carwash Dress with it multitude of pleats
http:/www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/fairytale-gowns-you-shall-go-to-the-ball-7743282.html?action=gallery&ino=3;

This is inspiring as I have quite an interest in fabric manipulation and what can be done with fabric to make beautiful dresses. Also the shapes bring me back to my paper folding origami research.

This was placed along side an Alexander McQueen dress made from what appeared to be pinky grey feathers. It is quite interesting to use alternative fabrics for dress making, or alternative pattern cutting, but still producing something beautiful and glamorous.http:/www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/fairytale-gowns-you-shall-go-to-the-ball-7743282.html?action=gallery&ino=6;

Gareth Pugh exhibited a dress made from silver interlocking pieces of leather, that appeared to have been formed without seams or darts http:/www.guardian.co.uk/artanddesign/2012/may/15/vanda-ballgowns-exhibition-red-carpet;

I like the idea of using metallic colours to create a beautiful, dress fit for bridal or evening wear collections

The last dress that made me gasp was a canary yellow dress by Erdem AW08, It had an amazing print at the bottom of the dress that included applique, embroidery and embellishment
 http:/www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/fairytale-gowns-you-shall-go-to-the-ball-7743282.html?action=gallery&ino=2;
I would like to include some form of embellishment on my dresses, not sure how or in what form, maybe I should look into other designers that have used embellishment within their collections.

1. Look into metallic fabrics
2. Research embellishment
3. see what shapes you can achieve from paper folding, or try and use some fabric and fold that

After the Ballgown Exhibition, we went downstairs to the Fashion Gallery to look at the collections.

http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O71739/tuileries-evening-dress-and-antonio-castillo/
within these I liked the Lanvin, Castillo evening dress with its net and taffeta skirt

Castillo used net over taffeta, and attached small cream circles to the net to help form with evening dress. This is something I have never considered, the use of net over fabric could create a different look if the net was a different colour to the underlying fabric


http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O120798/evening-dress-pierre-balmain/

Balmains evening dress from 1957 showed beautiful use of colour in a dress that could be a bridal gown, with pleats over the bust and applique over the skirt, it reminded me of Douglas Hannants Spring Summer 2013 Bridal Dress design, using floral print instead of the traditional Ivory or White.

This may be something I could use for my fabric, patterned fabric that ma not ordinarily be used for bridal wear or even evening wear.



Things to do - Look at patterned fabrics, use maybe stripped or checked?, maybe drape on stand to see how it may appear in a full skirt