Creative Pattern Cutting

I have manipulated my pictures from my draping on the stand exercise and have added the bodice from the first exercise to the outfit from the second exercise to see if the bodice works and if it looks nice and I think I really like it.

I think it gives the outfit and the sculptured parts on the bottom of the dress, balance. I also like that it only appears on the left hand side of the garment, giving the look an asymmetric feel, but I think I will look to see what the outfit would feel like with the pleating on both sides, just so that the idea can be eliminated with fact and research and evidence.

Now all I need to do is convert the draped pleated bodice part into a flat pattern that works and can be manufactured with the existing pattern bodice.

I think I will add it as and additional layer and insert it into the middle seam and the side seam, but I will need to increase the middle hem line so that is runs parallel with the existing bodice lines.

Creative Pattern Cutting, more.

Have attempted some more draping using an alternative method. Started with creating a bodice block by draping the fabric on the stand and pinning where the darts, or panels will form. Then growing the outfit from a basic block shape so that it is more structured and angular.
I've decided to see if the fabric will hold a structure growing from layers with in the skirt part of the outfit.
I think that in order to achieve this with permanence I will need to include some boning in the elevated section.
I have also looked into adding a cuff around the shoulder, but I do not think I like it too much.

I would like to try and add the bodice from my first draping attempt onto this outfit to see if it will work.
I am going to add it to Photoshop and manipulate the pictures to see how it will look, but in the meantime I will use this exercise to make my flat pattern.

Creative Pattern Cutting

I have done some experiments with draping on the stand to try and create a design like Marchesa or Cirnansck. I have included pleating to create a bodice shape, I like this shape and would very much like to include it in my final design for this project but I am not convinced with the whole gown look.

I have cinched in the waist with a piece of fabric in red poly satin in a rich red. This will help with the hourglass silhouette.

I decided to use the same colour fabric at the bottom of the gown to balance the colour, but the design would work equally as a cocktail dress with the bottom red removed.

I would like to carry on draping on the standard try and create something more sculptured and more angular.
 Will need to try this process again and see if I can create an alternative look.

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Creative Pattern Cutting Brief

Looking into Draping on the stand, I have researched some YouTube tutorials so that I know how to get started. I have learnt that mostly draping consists of taking fabric and allowing it to form shapes on the form, naturally or using the dummy to pin unusual shapes to using a basic bodice of dress form to gain avant-garde designs.

I have also learnt that some pattern cutters are given a design by the designer and it is their job to create the pattern for the designer, which they may do starting from draping on the stand to create not only the shapes required but also the feel that the fashion illustration conveys.

Jeremy Laing

Diane Kruger 

Designers that look at though they use draping to allow the fabric to show them which designs they can achieve are Jeremy Laing and Diane Kruger. Their designs seem to hang from the body in a way that is in balance with the fabric, it looks effortless and natural. Although this style of design looks very beautiful, it lacks the wow that I want to achieve, it doesn't seem to defy itself and looks quite organic. I like to design a more sculptured style, something that reflects the themes I design from, something with more strength.

Marchesa

Marchesa

Marchesa has many styles that have this strength within the design  a more sculptured and more contrived look. I like this type of draping and would like to achieve something like this from myself.

Marchesa seem to include angular shapes but still gives each dress a softness that seems paralleled by nature. Although they include triangles and pointed shapes, you are still left with a sense of the dress being part of a beautiful flower.

This is a concept I would like to be able to achieve, and allow my garments to translate

Moschino

Cirnansck

The final looks that I have researched and I like that appear to have been created by draping on the stand are ones that use the fabric to wrap shapes in to the figure, these designers seem to use the waist as a natural point to nip in the silhouette quite tightly, causing a beautiful hour glass outline. Designers that use this style are Moschino and a designer called Samuel Cirnansck. Cirnansck includes a heavily embellished bodice that looks as though a flower has dew sprinkled on its petals. I like this style, and I like the effect the nipped in waist gives the silhouette  I would very much like to use this idea but am unsure how it will work with the background my final project is heading towards.

All these pictures are from Stylesight


I will need to practice draping on the stand and see if I can achieve any of the ideas I like and see if I can achieve angular looks without compromising the softness of a feminine silhouette.
1. Find fabric that will drape but will equally fold and hold structure.
2. Experiment with draping to produce feminine shapes with a twist
3. Include manipulation of fabric to create a bodice with a nipped in waist.